DENMARK – Scandelights

Copenhagen – a mini guide

Published on November 11, 2022November 10, 2022 by Hanna3 Comments

This summer was truly the best! Finally we could roam more freely again. I could see my friends and family in Sweden like I used to and do a few fun trips.

Two of them were to one of my favourite cities; Copenhagen! And when I shared about it on Instagram some followers requested a guide, so I thought I would share some favourite places with you.

One of the trips was a day trip (as it is so close to where my parents live in Sweden), so I only tried one hotel, but it was a good one!

Where to stay

My best friend Emma and I both had big birthdays this year (we’re the same age!) and our present to each other was two days together in Copenhagen. We decided to treat ourselves and stayed at Villa Copenhagen. It’s housed in the former post office building and has lovely rooms with Scandinavian design features and lovely high ceilings. On the top floor there is a roof terrace with a bar and a pool which we of course took advantage of. It was actually partly why we chose to stay at this hotel, because it had a pool.

Where to eat

I love eating in Copenhagen but many of my old favourites have closed paving the way for new ventures. We had a lovely dinner at Bottega Barlie. Every dish we tried was great but we both adored the curd cheese with herbs and sourdough. Great wines too!

We ate the best avocado toast EVER (and I don’t say this lightly) at Atelier September. A slice of toasted Danish rye bread topped with a whole avocado and lots of chives it was a true delight!

As usual, we went to Torvehallerne for pinxtos at Tapa del Toro on both trips. It’s one of my favourite places (I made a reel about it on Instagram) and such a nice stop. Afterwards an iced coffee (or hot if you prefer) at Coffee Collective is a must. The open faced sandwiches (smørrebrød) are great here too.

For dinner on our day trip we went back to an old favourite, Paté Paté and enjoyed a lovely selection of small plates. The food is good, but it’s the ambiance what makes it such a nice evening.

If you want pizza, do not miss Bæst which has the best pizzas and a lovely vermouth bar, Rudo, upstairs and they serve the most amazing bar snacks.

For fine dining I love both Marchal, a classic Michelinstarred restaurant with gorgeous food and Uformel, that has small plates and feels younger and more fun.

Where to drink

Aforementioned Rudo is a great place! But for something fancier Balthazar champagne bar is the way to go. Or why not try one of the very Danish wine bars with rickety seating on the pavement?! I really like Vinhanen.

What to see and do

Some things I love to do in Copenhagen are visit the art museums, like Statens Museum for Kunst or Carlsberg Ny Glyptotek with its impressive atrium. Shopping is lovely too, whether it’s wine at Kjær & Sommerfeldt, homeware at Illums Bolighus, Notre Dame or Hay House or clothes from by Malene Birger. A visit to Rosenborg Castle and its surrounding gardens is lovely too or a walk in the Botanisk Have (the Botanical Gardens). Or visit the famous Tivoli Gardens for rides and fun!

How to get around

Walking or cycling is by far the best way to experience Copenhagen. Use buses or taxis at night, but during the day it’s best to put on comfortable shoes and walk around.

Copenhagen: Bæst Revisited!

Published on December 8, 2019December 8, 2019 by HannaLeave a comment

Since we only go to Copenhagen once a year it’s tricky to balance the urge to go back to old favourites with the excitement of trying new ones. So we do a bit of both, resulting in a day of feasting our way around the beautiful city. But as we get around mostly by walking it works!

So after trying a new bar, a new restaurant for lunch and another new bar, we went back to Bæst for their amazing pizzas! We loved it so much last year and it was just as good this time around.

But since we had had something yummy to eat at Rudo too, we didn’t go crazy ordering all the menu, which we did last year. We had just one starter; the garlic bread with lardo which was just lovely!

And then we moved on to what we were here for: the pizzas! Or more specifically, that Margherita I’ve dreamt about for a whole year! And yep, it was just as amazing as I remembered it!

But we did broaden our horizons a little trying two new pizzas too. This one with stracciatella, garlic, mushrooms and herbs was really nice (but almost a little too herby for my liking).

And lastly we had this one with mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes, prosciutto and rocket. Also really really good, but the margherita is the best ever! So when you go (because it’s just a matter of time really, you totally should go!), make sure you ordered it!

Bæst, Guldbergsgade 29, 2200 Copenhagen, Denmark

Copenhagen: Vermouth and Heavenly Nibbles at Rudo

Published on November 16, 2019 by HannaLeave a comment

Sometimes this whole “taking the day as it comes” approach doesn’t work out so well. Like when you arrive at Baest on a Saturday evening hoping for a table when the restaurant is clearly full. Of course we had to wait. And we happily did so, knowing what was in store at this wonderful pizza restaurant!

We were told it would take an hour until our table was ready and the maitre ‘d suggested we check out their bar Rudo in the meantime.

Always happy to check out a good bar we walked upstairs to this cosy bar we completely failed to notice on our first visit.

A vermouth bar! So we got persuaded to try something new, and both Maria and I (Daniel was driving and had to stick to soft drinks) were pleasantly surprised. I chose a white vermouth with citrus notes that I really liked while Maria settled on a red one. Both on the rocks and very refreshing on a balmy summer’s eve.

Obviously hungry we also checked out the bar snacks menu and spotted something that made us jump for joy: burrata toast with truffle. I mean, sounds like heaven on a plate, right?!

And, oh, it was too! Absolutely delicious and just as we were about to order our second one we were told our table downstairs was ready – only 40 minutes into our hour.

So down the stairs we went and took up seats at a communal table outside, simultaneously checking out the menu and the food around us. And then we settled in for a real pizza feast!

Moral of the story: sometimes “taking the day as it comes” works out better than if you had planned it! (If we had booked Baest like last time we would have missed out on this lovely bar experience. And that burrata and truffle toast!)

Rudo, Guldbergsgade 29, 1st floor, 2200 Copenhagen, Denmark

Copenhagen: A Second Lunch at the Food Market

Published on November 13, 2019November 13, 2019 by HannaLeave a comment

I never miss a food market when I’m travelling! Apart from in Barcelona when it was closed when we were nearby.

But when I find them open I always seek them out and make sure to pop in. It’s fun mingling with the locals, checking out the local produce and buy some culinary mementos to enjoy at home.

Copenhagen’s food market Torvehallerne, is a very sleek version of the food markets you find in other cities. The two buildings are all glass and modern, and although you can buy fresh produce it’s also interspersed with restaurants.

I think I’ve sampled them all, and one favourite we always come back to is Tapa del Toro with its many pinxtos to choose from.

Although we had just enjoyed a lovely gourmet lunch we wanted a little taste of both the food market atmosphere and the lovely pinxtos. Because sitting here sipping cava and biting into baguette with Jamon Iberico while people watching and chatting to your friends is just such a big part of what we love about Copenhagen.

When we finished we walked next door to a new interior shop Maria had discovered and had a look around enjoying the colour scheme and pretty things for sale.

Only to return to Torvehallerne and The Coffee Collective for a coffee before our next shop. Maria and Daniel had espressos but I decided to try their iced latte, which turned out to be the best one I’ve ever had! I don’t usually have milk in my coffee but it works really well if it’s a strong iced latte like this one. I was always skipping with joy drinking this!

Frederiksborggade 21, 1362 Copenhagen, Denmark

Copenhagen: Gourmet Lunch at Restaurant 108!

Published on November 12, 2019 by HannaLeave a comment

If booking a table at Noma seems too daunting or requires too much advanced planning, then Restaurant 108 is the next best thing. It’s a spin-off from Noma, and much more accessible. So accessible in fact that we rocked up for lunch one Saturday in August and they could fit us in without a reservation!

You see when I come home to Sweden I have hardly any time to myself to plan things like this, so this annual trip to Copenhagen with Maria and Daniel (aka the best tradition ever!) is all about spontaneity. We get in the car shortly before lunch time and decide there and then where we are going to go. Sometimes we call ahead but most of the time we just rock up and hope for the best. Luckily this works well in Copenhagen, where I feel people live more in the moment, than say London or Stockholm where you really have to book restaurants far in advance to not miss out.

And for us it just means the day is a very free-spirited one, with no time constraints or musts. We just go with the flow and we all love it!

But back to our lovely lunch. We got seated straight away, at a wooden table by the windows where there was a nice breeze from the open windows and doors letting some air circulate on this warm summer’s day.

We preferred to sit inside as this was fine dining and the sunshine would too quickly spoil the food, but there was a cute little terrace just outside over looking the cutest house boats on the canal, which we made sure to check out later.

The interior here is just as airy and clean as one would expect from a Danish restaurant offering new Nordic cuisine, and it feels like an almost tranquil space. The tables are fairly far apart and there is space for the waiters to do their dance in between table with such finesse it’s a treat to see.

Happy with our choice of restaurant (and that they had room for us!) we toasted with wine and beer and patted ourselves on the back.

Then the bread and butter arrived and we congratulated ourselves once again but it was out of this world good. The bread was still warm from the oven with a nice crunchy crust but the inside was all pillowy and soft and airy. And the butter (or was it really soured cream? It was so light it was hard to tell!) with its lovely tanginess was the perfect pairing.

Give me good bread and butter and I need nothing else to be happy!

But we had ordered a few other things and it would be a shame not to taste them!

My first plate of thinly sliced radish on top of smoked sturgeon looked very austere, but as you lifted up the radish slices you glimpsed the richness of what was inside. The smoked sturgeon yes, but also pumpkin seeds for texture and a rich but light sauce to bring it all together. Oh, such joy it was to eat this! Tender subtle flavours that just lingered in your mouth afterwards extending the experience.

But the next course was even better! It was the most perfect lamb tartare I’ve tasted in my life (and I have eaten a few tartares to know what I’m talking about!) and it was just pure heaven. The meat was soft and light and full of flavour and the herbs and seasoning just added layers and layers of flavour and texture I tried to savour it for as long as possible.

Meanwhile Maria ate this wonderful monk fish with herbs and flowers from the garden -probably the prettiest main course I’ve ever seen!

But I was happy enjoying my tartare in slow motion, savouring every moment and every bite!

As much as I loved the airy dining room, I also loved the rust coloured cosy loos, and just had to snap a selfie to remember this lunch by, because I think my face says it all; pure happiness and contentment!

Then I stepped out in the sun on the terrace where my friends were waiting and we got back in the car searching for more food related adventures. Yes, much more to come, so stay tuned!

Restaurant 108, Strandgade 108, 1401 Copenhagen, Denmark

Copenhagen: drinks at Rødder og Vin

Published on October 31, 2019 by HannaLeave a comment

Back in August when the days were longer and the nights were balmy I had a whole day in Copenhagen with my friends Maria and Daniel, as per our age old tradition. It’s so nice to have a day with these two in one of my favourite cities (and “almost” capital growing up) just chatting and exploring new things.

We concentrate on good food and drinks, but we always visit some shops and try to see a new area of this ever evolving city.

In the early evening when our legs were tired from all the walking and we needed a drink we went to the bar and wine shop Rødder og Vin for a much needed little break. The reason we stopped here was because we knew (thanks to Daniel’s research) that they sell cider from Fruktstereo here. Both Daniel and I grew up with one of the guys behind the cider brand so we want to support and try their products when we can, and in Copenhagen that’s quite easy.

We took our ice cold bottle of Cider Maybe outside to a wobbly bench underneath some scaffolding and toasted to our friends. It was such a lovely start to the evening sitting there with a nice cold (and dry – this is NOT Kopparberg, rather the polar opposite to it!) cider enjoying the hustle and bustle of Copenhagen.

When we had finished our drinks we got up and walked some more, to our dinner destination. So stay tuned for more Copenhagen tips!

Rødder og Vin, Ravnsborggade 10, 2200 København, Denmark

Copenhagen: dinner at Bæst

Published on October 19, 2018 by HannaLeave a comment

As you know I like to eat, and when I once a year have my day with friends (who luckily also likes their food) in Copenhagen, we make the most of it. Which is why we could fit in tacos for lunch (followed by some smørrebrød because why not?!), fika at our favourite place, wine and cheese pre-dinner at this nice little spot and then still had room for dinner. The August heat and the walking helped though.

Bæst, our dinner spot for the evening was recommended by Daniel and all three of us loved it. It was laid back and cosy, and obviously a popular spot because it filled up as we sat there.

The menu reflects the casual atmosphere and has the emphasis is on good local organic produce and sharing plates. Just what we like!

The grilled courgette and kale salad what we started with was really nice. It had texture, a nice charred flavour on the courgette and acidity and freshness as well. It’s the kind of vegetable dish that makes you feel good.

Next up we had a huge plate of chicken wings, covered in a herb-y finger-licking sauce. Delicious! And a lot fresher on the palate than regular buffalo wings (which I love, but this version was more interesting).

After that we were ready for the main event; the pizzas!

Cooked in a 500C (!) oven these blistery, still soft but cooked just enough pizzas are to die for.

Especially the classic margherita. With a delicious tomato sauce, their own (!) mozzarella and basil.

I mean, look at this. Pizza perfection.

Bæst, Guldbergsgade 29, 2200 København N

Copenhagen: wine and cheese at Vinhanen

Published on September 26, 2018September 26, 2018 by Hanna2 Comments

It’s difficult to explain the difference between Denmark and Sweden, or the difference between Stockholm and Copenhagen, especially as both countries and cities have different areas with different vibes, but overall I would say Denmark is just so much more relaxed.

Sitting like this, on a wobbly bench on the pavement outside a wine bar amongst parked bicycles drinking wine and using an old IKEA stool for a table is very Copenhagen. The bicycles are definitely a part of the scene and I like the no-fuss approach to basically everything.

I actually can’t remember how we found this wine bar, but it was on our way to the restaurant where we had dinner after, and tired of shopping we just fancied a glass of something cold and some nibbles.

And that’s exactly what we got at Vinhanen. Lovely cold wine (much needed in the August heat), crusty sourdough bread and yummy cheeses. The owner was lovely and chatty and we got to try the different wines so we got one we really liked. So nice!

In the store (you can also fill a bottle and take it away) they have big barrels of wine on tap, so you can order a bottle, a glass or a carafe. Clever!

Apart from the good booze and cheeses Vinhanen also offers a nice eclectic mix of people and fun people watching on the street. It’s the kind of place you want to hang out in all night. And that’s exactly what I intend to do next time.

Vinhanen, Baggesensgade 13, Nørrebro, Copenhagen

Copenhagen: Hija de Sanchez

Published on September 20, 2018 by Hanna1 Comment

When an ex-Noma chef opens a taco restaurant you just know it’s going to be good food. On my day trip to Copenhagen this summer with my usual Copenhagen travellers Maria and Daniel, we didn’t have enough time to go to the restaurant but got to taste Hija de Sanchez’ tacos at our favourite lunch place; the food market called Torvehallerne.

There are several restaurant stalls here, so you can sample a bit of this and a bit of that. But we went straight to Hija de Sanchez and ordered a plate each of tacos.

And some cava. Because why not?!

All three of the tacos were (of course) delicious! The one with cheese and avocado (queso fresco) was nice and fresh but I also really liked the one with fried runny egg and guacemole. And the barbecoa was the best I’ve ever eaten (and I’ve sampled a few…)!

Next time I really need to go the restaurant – can’t wait to sample the whole menu! Which I’m sure my travel companions are up for.

Hija de Sanchez, Taquería and market, Torvehallerne, Frederiksborggade 21, Copenhagen

Copenhagen: Street Food at Papirøen

Published on March 20, 2018March 20, 2018 by Hanna1 Comment

Being from the south of Sweden, I sometimes feel like I have two countries, and definitely two capitals. Stockholm, of course, because it IS my capital, and Copenhagen because it is a capital and so close by. It’s the airport I travel to and from every time I go home to Sweden, and it’s one of my favourite cities. Partly because I know it so well, but also because it’s just fantastic. It’s pretty, not too big, has lots of water and parks interspersed, it’s easy to get around and the people are friendly.

And they take food seriously. On my last visit, in August last year, Daniel, Maria and I were all super excited to have lunch at The Corner of Rene Redzepi’s No. 108. As we approached in the torrential rain we noticed they were closed, but luckily we were only a few minutes away from Copenhagen Street Food at Papirøen (which I was dying to visit anyway) so we had lunch there instead.

It was the perfect place to take shelter from the rain. And walk around the different food stalls and pick a nice buffet lunch. For as you can imagine, it’s impossible to only eat one thing here.

We started with traditional Danish smørrebrød (openfaced sanwiches) and they were very good.

Then we shared some yummy tacos and had a little breather. The hardest thing was finding somewhere for us to sit, so make sure you secure a few chairs before you go looking for food, unless you’re happy with a quick bite standing up.

Next I had the best thing ever; a GOURMET hot dog. It had mayo, crispy onions, parmesan – the works and was the best hot dog I’ve ever had. So yummy!

I was seriously full after these different snacks but we decided we could share one more dish before throwing in the towel.

And this is what we went for; fries topped with duck meat, creamy dressing and pickled red onions. It was seriously greasy but absolutely delicious and a perfect ending to our meal.

I just read on their website that Copenhagen Street Food is closed until May this year, but hopefully the same vendors will be back then.

Copenhagen Street Food, Hall 7 & 8, Papirøen (Paper Island), 14 Trangravsvej, DK-1436 Copenhagen, Denmark