Lotta’s restaurant in Ystad, Sweden

One eveningn in Sweden me, Christopher and my mum and dad headed to Ystad, a small town in the south of Sweden, just by the seafront, and the home of one of Sweden’s buggest crime exports; Wallander. For those of you who have seen the series, I promise that Ystad is actually a nice town and not that grey and brown as portrayed in the series.

My parents wanted to take me to a restaurant called Store Thor (The great Thor), which they think is the best restaurant in the whole of Ystad. During the summer, however, the regular restaurant is closed and instead they only serve more simple dishes, like burgers and chicken scewers and that was not really what we were after. The outdoor seating didn’t look very nice either, as many tables crammed together as possible, I guess so they could make good money during the tourist season, but it would still be nice to keep the normal restaurant open for regulars.

We passed on the burgers and walked across the street to Lottas instead. At least it was a cosier atmosphere. The food was quite good, but still not exactly what we were after, but we still enjoyed it. And if we had booked here and gone here knowing what to expect we would have been quite happy.

The snaila that Christopher, myself and dad chose as a starter were big and juicy, served without the shells and tasted lovely.

Mother chose a toast Skagen instead and received a large plate full of salad, rye bread and prawns.

As a maincourse, three of us chose the same again, this time mother, Christopher and I – the schnitzel Cordon Bleu; thinly sliced pork escalope folded in half with Swiss cheese and smoked ham in the middle. It was huge, as you can see, and very tasy. So was the jus that came with it. The potatoes dissappointed slightly, and was the only potato option on the menu, but still good.

Father chose the pepper steak with peppercorn sauce and the same potatoes, and he really enjoyed the tender meat.

After such sturdy dishes, we were way too full to even think about dessert…

A wonderful day in Copenhagen, Denmark

Before we left Sweden we had time for a day in Copenhagen. It is so convenient to go there, by car at least, the trains are a pain at the moment. Since it was Christopher’s second time in Copenhagen we decided to be cultural and do some sightseeing.

First stop was Amalienborg Palace, the Danish equivalent to Buckingham Palace. We went into the small museum that was quite uninpressive and then watched the changing of the guards. Although most of the castle is not open to the public, still walk this way just to see the location. With an impressive cathedral right behind it, a wonderful view of the canal and the newish Opera House it feels rather nice.

After Amalienborg we had a quick lunch before heading to Rosenborg castle, which turned out to be amazing. A real, but small, castle complete with a moat and impressive interior. Best of all was the treasury where the crown jewels are kept. And that explained why two guards were combat ready with machine guns and knives outside the castle.

The most important thing with the castle was the grand hall on the second floor where they displayed the thrones. So worth a visit!

After being cultural for most part of the day, we decided we had deserved a nice coffee break. After Daniel and Maria’s recommendations we headed towards Nyhavn (the New Harbour) which is a real tourist trap, although nicely situated by the canal. But if you walk past all the seedy restaurants and turn left you find this amazing wooden deck with amazing views of the river, the opera house and Noma.

The place is called Ofelia beach and has a restaurant inside, as well as a café and bar and all the tables outside. Lovely, and so different to heaving Nyhavn, here was peace and quiet and perfect to sit and just watch the water and what is happening on the other bank.

On our way back towards the big pedestrian street, Strøget, I had to have icecream with guf, which is a must for me when in Denmark. Guf is like loose marshmallow fluff and tastes sweet from strawberries. I love it, but maybe more because of childhood memories than because it is a delicacy…

We also had time for some shopping, wines at Kjær & Sommerfeldt and kitchen stuff at Illums bolighus, then the skies opened and we rushed to the car and drove back to Sweden to meet up with Daniel and Maria for dinner.

Where to go for ‘fika’ in south of Sweden

Fika is a common Swedish word, meaning to sit down with a hot drink and either eat a sandwich or a cake with it. We do this a lot. When I grew up we would have six meals a day, and three of them being fika. Our day usually looked like this:

  • breakfast
  • morning fika
  • lunch
  • afternoon fika
  • dinner
  • evening fika

When meeting up with friends in Sweden you usually go for fika instead of a drink sometimes, since alcohol is more expensive there, but also because the culture is slightly different. Swedes drink, a lot actually, but not usually much on weekdays unless going out for a meal or it being an occasion.

If you ever go to the South of Sweden – where I’m from – I recommend you to try these few places for fika, lunch or just a cup of coffee:

Kust (Coast): A gem in Falsterbo with a cosy deck with tables, feeling almost like New England. The food is fresh and nice and the sandwiches huge. Everything is made to order, and they ask for your name instead of giving you a number – a nice touch. I went there with Emma and we had a salad each. Caesar salad at the top, and sweet chili chicken below.

http://www.kustcafe.se/

Katrinetorps trädgårdscafé (Katrinetorp’s garden café): Near where the bridge between Denmark and Sweden attach to the mainland you find a nice old house called Katrinetorp. On the grounds you find both an antique shop, English garden and this lovely café with outdoor seating in the most adorable courtyard. We had prawn sandwiches here after my parents had picked up us, and I was too hungry to take any photos. But the food is nice, the cakes look amazing and the surroundings are lovely as well. They also serve proper mains for lunch if you prefer.

http://www.malmo.se/Medborgare/Idrott–fritid/Natur–friluftsliv/Natur–och-rekreationsomraden/Katrinetorp/Katrinetorps-tradgardskafe.html

Lilla kafferosteriet (The little coffee roastery): On the street Baltzargatan in Malmö you encounter this low yellow house on the corner where Christopher had his best latte ever (!). You can buy all sorts of coffee, sandwiches, cakes and buns and it all looks lovely. You can either sit in the mismatched cosy sofas and chairs indoors or take a step out into the garden and enjoy the sun. They also have coffee to go, and a shop where you can buy different coffee blends to use at home. As far from Starbuck’s as possible and sooo much better!

http://rosteriet.blogspot.com/

Mosaik, Malmö, Sweden

We went out eating with friends in Malmö, one evening in Sweden. We headed to Gränden, a cosy court yard restaurant with cheap and cheerful food; but the reason you go is that court yard. But not any more. After been waiting for 45 minutes, having dealt with really rude staff, experienced flat drinks and having tables given away to other people although we were first on the waiting list is just not acceptable.

Tired, hungry and grumpy we went to Mosaik on the grand square instead. We were greeted by happy, efficient staff and managed to have a lovely evening despite the way it began.

Mosaik is a tapa style place with dishes from all over the Mediterranean. One dish Christopher and I shared was these mussles. They look fantastic don’t they?! They were good, but less tasty than they look unfortunately.

The fried potatoes looks quite plain but was delicious! After the meal my friends asked me what the best dish was and I actually said the potatoes. They looked at me with amazement and shook their heads… 🙂

But then I remembered the mushroom risotto, which actually was the best dish we had that evening. Creamy, light and full of flavour.

Christopher enjoyed this goat’s cheese toast all by himself, I had no idea what was with me, but for some reason I didn’t fancy goat’s cheese that day. Didn’t fancy cheese, how unlike me!

I love calamari, and when I make them myself I usually don’t coat them with batter because they are so soft and lovely as they are. Normally when dipped in batter it is because they are either readymade and rubbery (read: horrible) or like they want to hide less good produce. With those sceptic thoughts I was quite surprised when these calamaris were smooth and soft on the inside with crispy batter on the outside, not the rubbery limd at all.

We were three couples eating together and each couple chose their selection of tapas to try, and all of us ended up trying the teriyaki marinated chicken wings which were lovely.

We managed to have a really nice evening together, like you always do with good friends, and we definitely had better food were we ended up. Still a cheap place, but with far better service…

More birthday celebrations: Nopi

The Friday after my biryhday I got to celebrate becoming a year older together with my London based friends. We met up in the bar The Living Room after work and enjoyed a few drinks, and then we crossed Regent St and went for dinner at Nopi, a new restaurant from the team behind Ottolenghi.

Our table was a large communal one in the basement just outside the kitchen. On the ground floor is was a different atmosphere with small tables of two and four and busier than downstairs. We enjoyed being left alone a bit and to enjoy each other’s company.

To start with we were served homemade nice bread and the most amazing carrot dip. It was all orange (of course) and we could taste lemon and cumin in it. A great start to the meal, and a dip I definitely want the recipe for!

We were a group of eight, and therefore had a group menu, consisting of eight dishes all in all. We started off with two vegetarian dishes, both absolutely fantastic. The first one was a tomato salad with wasabi mascarpone. It sounds simple and it was, but the flavours were lovely. The tomatoes were great produce and the mascarpone dressing had just a hint of wasabi, enough to flavour it but not enough to make it spicy.

We also had an aubergine tart on crisp thin pastry with the mildest and creamiest goat’s cheese I have ever tasted. Fabulous dish, especially for aubergine lovers like me!

The first of the hot dishes to arrive was grilled mackerel with lentils. My sensitive stomach can’t really do lentils, but I had a forkful anyway and it was really nice. A very fresh and summery dish.

The nicest dish (I think we all agreed on that) was one of the simplest ones; broccolini and a most amazing mash. I have never had such a good mash in my life time, and yet my own versions are quite good. 🙂

Next was the meat dishes, like this smoked duck breast with nectarines, beetroot and a sweet sauce. The meat itself was perfect and had a lovely smoked flavour, but I didn’t tink the necatines and beetroot was a great match, not for each other and not with the duck.

We then had twice cooked (barbecued) chicken, which was really nice, but it is still just chicken. I prefer to eat more unusual things in restaurant, things I can’t cook myself…

For dessert we had white chocolate icecream (lovely but didn’t taste that much of white chocolate) with berries and financiers with coffee and pecans, with a maple cream.

I am not that keen on coffee, but this was just a hint and it worked really well with the pecans. The maple cream was superb and after a while we came up with the ultimate way of eating this dessert (i.e. getting as much cream onto the financiers) by dipping the whole little cake into the sauce bowl. Yum!

We were full in a nice way when leaving the restaurant just before midnight, and I definitely want to go back. The food feels quite healthy and I love the Middle Eastern spices.

Nopi
21-22 Warwick Street
London W1B 5NE

My birthday part II: St John

My birthday was a real foodie day, with lunch at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon with Caroline and dinner at St John in Smithfield with Christopher.

Smithfield is an area close to Farringdon tube, well know for its meat market and John Torode has his empire Smith’s of Smithfield here. It is also in this area where you find Fergus Henderson’s restaurant St John.

The restaurant is located in what looks like an old factory or storage area. It is painted white, both inside and outside and as soon as you step inside you see the bar and a few tables, and to the right you have the dining room.

I don’t know how to describe the place other than very rustic, perhaps a bit rough, but that is part of the concept. A good concept it seems as the restaurant is full up this monday evening, and the clientele vary in age and ethnicity.

As soon as we sat down the bread and butter appeared on the table, and a minute later the bottle of sparkling water I had ordered appeared as well; Hildon water rebottled with the St John logo. The service continued to be this efficient all evening, and I was actually impressed how good the waiters were. Quick, efficient, knowledgeable and friendly. This together with the excellent food made you like the place instantly.

I started off with the famous bone marrow with parsley salad. The plate also held two large slices of brown toast and sea salt and all you needed for a tremendous food experience.

Christopher opted for duck hearts with radishes which were very nice and tender, but the bone marrow was even nicer.

My main was wood pigeon with courgettes and I got two large pieces of tender, still slightly bloody meat. Gorgeous. And the mushy courgettes were all you needed to go with it.

Christopher chose the lamb sweetbreads as his maincourse and they came with bacon and turnip. What a dish! I have tried sweetbreads before in restaurants but it was never this good. These were melt in the mouth smooth exploding of flavour. The smoked bacon was a perfect match as well.

Quite full at this stage we welcomed the 15 minutes wait (announced on the menu) it took for our dessert to arrive on the tables. We shared half a dozen freshly baked madeleines that were gorgeous! Buttery and soft. Total bliss! Till efterrätt delade vi på ett halvt dussin madeleiner, som vi båda älskar.

This is another place I highly recommend, especially for fellow foodies. But even if you’re feeling less adventurous there is plenty of fish etc.  on the menu.

St. JOHN Bar and Restaurant
26 St. John Street
London
EC1M 4AY

My birthday part I: L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

It was my birthday yesterday and I got spoilt absolutely rotten. At lunch time, my dear colleague Caroline took me to L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (just next to the Ivy in Covent Garden) and we had a fabulous lunch. The restaurant offer a prix fixe menu, regular a’la carte and also small plates a’la carte, which we went for.

First of all we recieved an amuse bouche from the kitchen; heavenly foie gras with a foamy top.

There after the small plates arrived two by two. First up was this lovely egg in cocotte with a wild mushroom foam. Absolutely delicious!

We also had the crab waffles with tarragon. The display was wonderful and the red and black theme comes through the whole restaurant. The waffles were absolutely lovely; crisp on the outside and soft on the inside wit the crab meat.

Next up was the langoustine fritter with pistou. Simple but very nice.

We also had the arctic char with squid and squid ink. The fish was perfectly cooked and just fell apart. It was also nice to find char in a London restaurant, in Sweden it is a common fish, but not here.

The last dish was pig’s trotters on toast with pancetta and slivers of parmesan. Absolutely fantastic!

I highly recommend a visit, and I know for sure I will be back. Thanks Caroline!

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
13-15 West Street,
London
WC2H 9NE

Tasting menu at Trinity

The birthday girl to the left and her housemate to the right

It is my dear friend Gaby’s birthday on Wednesday and to celebrate it she invited a few friends to Trinity to enjoy a splendid tasting menu on Saturday.

A fabulous idea we thought, not missing an opportunity to go back, and it is safe to say we were not disappointed.

We sat at the chef’s table just by the kitchen and were so spoilt. The menu started off with a chilled pea and mint soup with croûtons, homemade ricotta and lemon purée. I am not a fan of chilled soups in general, and although this was very nice, I still think a soup is lacking a little when served chilled, but that is just my personal opinion. Christopher for example, loved it.The flavours were all there, and the velvety smooth soup had the perfect balance of contrast from the mint and the lemon.

Next course was seared yellow fin tuna with pak choi and sesame and soy dressing, which was probably the dish I was least fond of. The tuna was perfectly cooked, but didn’t have that much flavour to it. It also felt like a generic combination of flavours and less interesting than the other dishes.

The scallop that followed on the other hand was superb! The large perfectly cooked scallop with white gazpacho, pickled grapes and almonds were a heavenly combination. I could never (sadly) recreate the gazpacho which was more like a cream than a soup and it married so well with the grapes.

Next up was slowcooked duckbreast, spinach, pickled girolles, potato gratin and a lovely confit of duck leg pastry parcel, which took this dish to another level together with the raisin reduction.

The palate cleanser was green tea yoghurt, which on the menu sounded nice, but quite ordinary. But there was nothing ordinary about the taste. Thick green tea yoghurt on the bottom of a glass, then a small strip of jelly, and on top this lovely creamy foam.

Instead of the dessert on the menu we recieved a whole spread of desserts; warm chocolate pots, chocolate chip icecream, little apple pies, cheese, a huge and lovely cherry soufflé, strawberries, shortbread and vanilla mousse, chocolate mousse with peanut crumble… It was so much it was difficult to take it all in, but it was all lovely. I can safely say that the birthday girl was thrilled to bits!

Trinity
4 The Polygon
Clapham Old Town
London SW4 0JG


It is actually my birthday today, and I will continue with the gluttany by going out for both lunch and dinner. Reviews to come of course.

Da Polpo

I told you briefly that I had been to the faily newly opened Italian Da Polpo in Covent Garden. With me was my colleague Caroline, who just like me appreciates good food.

We ordered the special of the day; a mackerell tartare with horseradish sauce and flatbread. I really enjoyed the tartar but the horseradish was a bit strong. We also had the chilli and garlic prawns and grilled foccacia, which both were good and just what we expected really. The foccacia was less spongy than most but still really nice. The prawns had a nice spice coating as well as the spicy oil. After we’d enjoyed the prawns we realised that the rocket left in the oil was almost as good.

We had to try one of the meatballs and opted for the spicy pork and fennel ones. They were lovely in consistency, just the right amount of heat and you could really taste the fennel seeds. We also tried the asparagus with melted tallegio and ham, which basically was a tomato free pizza. Absolutely lovely.

Both of us enjoyed all the dishes but the favourites were the meatballs and the asparagus and taleggio pizza. We also came up with the brilliant idea to eat our way through the menu. Not in one go though, but we will definitely be back. Soon.

The restaurant has a nice rustic interior and the menu is your placemat. The service was quite good, but maybe a bit slow considering the restaurant wasn’t full up. But the reason why I like this place is the good value for money. The food was very good, and plenty of it, and still the bill only came to £30 for both of us.

Da Polpo
6 Maiden Lane
Covent Garden

My London week

I sometimes feel I don’t have time to update the blog about all the nice places I visit in this lovely city, so every Friday I will try and tell you about my week and what I have been up to.

Twice this week, have I had drinks at the London institution Gordon’s Wine Bar. The bar is situated by Embankment station and has plenty of tables outside as well as nice wines to reasonable prices. They have nice food here as well, and you buy it next to the bar. Most common is the excellent selection of cheeses and condiments, but they have salads, chilli prawns, squid, chicken scweres and much more.

I have also been to da Polpo in Covent Garden for the first time. It is newly opened and similar to its sister restaurants Polpo, Polpetto och Spuntino; they serve rustic Italian food to very reasonable prices. (A more descriptive review to come.)

This weekend we are venturing out of London, to visit Christopher’s mother in Buckinghamshire. The train journey only takes 30 minutes, but it is real countryside here with nice pubs, walks, cute shops and fresher air. We’re probably having a barbecue on Saturday, which is such a treat for someone living in a flat!

Have a fantastic weekend, guys!