Syria: Naranj restaurant, Damascus

Before we left for Syria I had googled restaurants, just to have other sources than Lonely Planet. And even though LP are great, I don’t always agree with their food section.  Most internet sources I found said the same; that the best restaurant in Damascus is Naranj. So we went there the first evening. And we were certainly not disappointed.

The restaurant is situated in the middle of the Old City, and when you step in, a member of staff is opening the door for you. It is a large restaurant and has two ‘rooms’. To the right is the larger ‘room’ and from there you can look into the busy kitchen. To the left is a smaller ‘room’ with smaller tables by the windows.  We ended up in the smaller section and it was great for people watching. We spotted a few ex-pats, some business men, three young arab men and some Japanese (I think) military officers (again, I think) in uniform. An eclectic mix! The interior was fresh with dark wood furniture and white table cloths.

Before we even had a chance to look at the menu, some nibbles appear: crisp bread with tapenade and a peppery dip. Both lovely. 

 

We then decided to order some mixed mezze. It feels like you’ve got to when it is your first evening in the Middle East. Of course we ordered the usual stuff that we would order in London too, but a few unusual dishes as well.

One of the ‘safe’ dishes was tabbouleh, which I have actually made once. But in the West we seem to have a lot of bulgur wheat in it, where as in the Middle East it is only a tiny bit, with lots more herbs. It was really nice and fresh but still had quite a punch from all the fresh herbs.

Hommus felt like a cliché, but of course we had to order it. It was really nice and creamy, but not that different to the supermarket version. In the foreground you see some Arabic butter which we also tried. I have had something similar in Turkey, but I didn’t really like it. It is less creamy than regular cow’s butter, and has a strong taste of sheep and/or goat’s milk. Not my thing, I’m afraid.

Marinated vegetables in olive oil were nice too.

What we enjoyed the most was the baba ganoush. I adore aubergine and this was amazingly good! Christopher enjoyed it too, even though he is less crazy about eggplants than me.

Nearly as lovely as the baba ganoush was the lamb meatballs with a yoghurt sauce. They were mild and soft, and had a nice flavour about them, and quite a tang from the sauce.

This is one of the unusual dishes: lamb in sour cherry sauce. A local delicacy, originally from Aleppo, Christopher had to try it. It was nice, but the sauce was too sickly for me.

My maincourse was lamb kebab with more aubergine. It was really tasty, I’d really like to know how they so subtly season the meat. And barbecued meat – who can say no to that! I was glad I had a fairly light and healthy maincourse, because, we certainly had a big starter with all that mezze. Even though we hadn’t ordered any dessert (we were too full to) we received a huge plate of little baked goodies, like bakhlava. And a massive fruit bowl. We can’t say no to food when it is right in front of us, so of course we tried most of the little desserts. We werevery full after that though…

This was the perfect place to discover Middle Eastern food, at least for us. Everything was very well cooked and fresh. The service was good and the restaurant had a good ambiance. It wasn’t expensive either, compared to London, but in Syria it is considered an expensive restaurant. I think we paid around £35-40 for two, which you don’t get much for in London.

Naranj

Straight Street, Damascus, Syria.

Tel: 963 11 541 3444

Visitors again

My best friend Emma and I!

Maybe I should open a B&B?! Because we’re having visitors again. 🙂 This time it is my best friend Emma and her fiancée who are staying for the weekend. I have lost count how often Emma has come to stay since I moved to London, and I am forever grateful for that!

I am so glad both Christopher and I have recovered from the flu, so we can enjoy the weekend. It will be a relaxed one with lots of quality time together. Tonight after work we’re hoping to have a glass at Terroirs, and then go home and eat lots of finger food. It is easily prepared and it is nice to sit together and eat slowly on a Friday. We will probably bore them with photos from Syria as well though 🙂

We haven’t yet got any plans for tomorrow, other than a nice homecooked dinner in the evening, but on Sunday we’re having brunch at Gordon Ramsay’s York & Albany, which I hope will be great. Have a nice weekend!

Syria: Damascus

We started and ended our holiday in Syria in the capital Damascus. When we got off the plane and proceeded into the airport I wondered for a quick moment, if maybe we had landed somewhere else, as it looked like a tiny airport like the one outside my hometown of Malmö, Sweden. But no, we had landed in Syria. The passport control was interesting, as it took each passenger about 10 minutes to go through. We were asked lots of questions and they checked our passports very thoroughly for Israely stamps, which would mean you’d be refused to enter the country.

We arrived at 11pm and just took a taxi to our hotel and said goodnight. The nexy day we started by changing hotels (don’t believe everything in Lonely Planet!) and went for a wander. Already at this initial stage we noticed lots of differences to the Western world. There is so much more life on the streets. People selling snacks, fresh produce or something manufactured, and there are so many more people out. All day it felt like the London rush hour on the busiest streets.

We started our tour of the city by ticking off the big things like the souqs, the grand mosque,Azam’s palace and the rest of the old city. I don’t want to write a lot about the sights, but will show you the pictures.

Azam's Palace
The Umayyad mosque

The second day in Damascus we did a food tour, which I will write about in its own post) and when we were done with that, we took a cab to the new city, and that looked exactly as I had pictured the Middle East in my head: multi-lane roads lined with palm trees.

The hotel!

When we had travelled around the country for a week we returned to Damascus, and stayed in a fantastic boutique hotel for a night. It was lovely, the best service I have ever experienced, and I so wish we could have afford to stay there longer, but it was a lovely treat to stay there one night. Especially when we had experienced a minor sand storm earlier in the day. We basically looked liked tramps when we checked in, but after a nice long soak we looked like ourselves again.

Hello again…

I’m back from a lovely holiday in Syria, but unfortunately came down with fever and tummy flu as a welcome home present. Am strongly suspecting that the woman throwing up at the gate on our way home is the source. And I thought it was bad enough with my ‘tourtist’ tummy in Libya…

But despite all that, we had a great holiday. We travelled around the country and got to see amazing things. The food was great, and I ate enough at the first half of the holiday to make up for the second half. We even got to cook with a Syrian chef, which was amazing. Will tell you all about it, as soon as I feel like myself again.

Trinity once again, but still fabulous

Last Sunday when Daniel and Maria were visiting we had booked a table at Trinity in Clapham Old Town, because we love to bring our friends there. It was nice and sunny during the short walk there, and we were the first table there. After just a few minutes it started to fill up. The menu looked amazing, so it was difficult to decide, but I think we were all very happy with what we chose.

We were given some small green (unpitted) olives when we arrived, and they were really nice. Lots of flavour but very refreshing. After that they brought in the amazing bread, and we were quite proud that we didn’t order any more. We usually do, and then we are too full to move afterwards.

Maria and I chose the shellfish chowder with bacon and saffron as a starter and it was lovely. The bacon was the most dominant flavour, and that just can’t go wrong. There was just a hint of saffron despite the very yellow colour, and the other flavours were quite muted, but together it was a fantastic taste.

Daniel also chose a soup; the crab bisque with a crab toast on the side. It looked delicious and it went down very well.

Christopher chose the smoked venison tartar (of course) with celeriac creme and an egg yolk on the side in its shell. I got to taste it and it was lovely. Lots more flavour than a regular steak tartar and Christopher thought it was better than the Wolseley’s steak tatar which he adores. I think that says it all…

For his maincourse Daniel chose the baked salmon with leeks and sorrel creme. It looked amazing, and nearly converted me to like cooked salmon again. I used to eat it all the time, and have therefore no desire for it anymore, but I would have loved to try this one. The leeks were very sweet and tender and the sorrel cream delicious.

Maria and Christopher had the traditional Sunday Roast with slow-cooked sirloin, yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, gravy, cooked vegetables and freshly grated horseradish and bone marrow. This was even better the roast Christopher had last time, but the potatoes, even though they were delicious, they were quite greasy.

I thought I scored the jackpot with my maincourse, because it was utterly divine! Cooked thinly sliced lamb as a salad with sardines, lamb lettuce, baked onions that were nice and sweet, crispy sweetbread and the best of it all; wild garlic creme. I had this for my asparagus starter the first time I came here, and fell in love (literally, I can’t stop thinking about it) and could easily have has a tub of it.

The starters and mains are extremely well executed, and even though the desserts are nice, I never think they are as good as the savoury food. And I actually don’t believe that is because I am full at this stage. Don’t get me wrong, the desserts were very nice, but not that far from what one can make at home.

Daniel had the Valhrona hot pot which tasted like the middle of a chocolate fondant, half baked, and blood orange rippled icecream.

Christopher had the profileroles filled with a vanilla creme and the chocolate sauce on the side. It was nice, but not that different to other profiteroles, he said.

Maria and I decided to finish the meal in the same way, with a treacle tarte with milk icecream. The tarte was nice, although a little sharp from lemon. It was perfect to serve it with milk icecream, a creamy icecream would have been too much. I think Daniel’s dessert was the best one out of the bunch, and he was also the one who was really really pleased with his. The rest of us were nice and content, but still thinking about our starters and mains I think. For me, the lamb salad would have been enough for me, it was sooo extremely good, I even said at the table, that if I had that as my last meal I would die very happy.

The service was as always brilliant. Not too friendly, not too rigid, just the right balance. The only negative thing with our lunch was that it was raining when we got out, and we had no umbrellas. But I think the quick walk home did us good for digesting the lovely lunch. 🙂

As you can see, I didn’t take my best camera with me. I preferred to be discrete and use my little compact camera. Before I have been too embarassed to even take out a camera, so even though some of the photos are a bit our of focus, at least you get the idea of what our amazing lunch looked like. 🙂

Fish burgers, sort of

I try sometimes, not to spend a fortune on food every week, but it is so diffucult not to when I find lots of interesting recipes everywhere. I bought fresh Alaskan Pollock the other day, because it is quite a cheap fish but still tasty, but I didn’t really know what to do with it. At first I thought of fish soup, but I wasn’t in the mood, so in the end I settled for burgers, sort of.

I didn’t mince the fish and made burgers that way. Instead I just cut each fillet in three, turned them in flour and fried them in butter. I served it with burger buns, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber, lemon, storebought hollandaise, a homemade cold dill sauce and potato wedges. It was actually very tasty, surprisingly good, especially with the dill sauce, so we will make this more often.

Cold dill sauce, serves 2

100 ml creme fraiche

100 ml mayonnaise

1 tsp dijon

2 tbsp chopped fresh dill

salt & white pepper

Fortnum & Mason

There is a tall building on Piccadilly with a pistachio green front. It has been there since the 1700s and is the oldest department store in London: Fortnum & Mason.

On the ground floor they sell the most popular items, such as their own label of preserves, tea, coffee and sweets. Everything is nicely packed in fancy containers that to resist buying. The quality is good, even really good, and it is easy to understand why Fortnum’s is so popular.

On the lower ground floor they have other groceries and wine. On the first floor you find a lovely café and icecream parlour, where there is always a queue, nice things for the kitchen and home. This is also where you find their extremely popular hampers. You can even send a hamper filled with goodies abroad!

The second floor is the women’s department and here you find makeup, perfume, lingerie and accessories. Next floor up is the men’s section with shaving equipment, stationery and everything you would need for a gentleman’s study.

I love this place because it is old-fashioned and modern at the same time, but more than anything it is all classic. Before Christmas they sell the most amazing (and expensive) decorations, but the proper kind, glass baubles that are hand-finished, and handmade cards and lovely wrapping paper.

I feel that most people who visit Fortnum’s, especially tourists, only look at the ground floor, and are missing out on all the other lovely things. Please take an extra 15 minutes to explore the whole store, next time.

There is also a restaurant, that I would love to try. It looks nice and old-fashioned, and if the café is anything to go by, it will be great.

Blackberry cake with lime

After all the nibbles on Saturday it was nice to finish the meal with something sweet. I made this blackberry cake with a nice hint of lime. The recipe is from a Swedish recipe site called Tasteline. As usual I have made a few small changes to the original recipe, but only a few. =)

To make this cake extra delicious, served it with lightly whipped cream with a dash of vanilla sugar and a splash of elderflower liquer! Yum!

Blackberry cake with lime, serves 8

150 g softened butter

300 ml caster sugar

2 eggs

300 ml plain flour

1 tbsp vanilla sugar

1 tsp baking powder

1/2 lime, the juice

150 g fresh blackberries

1/2 lime, the zest

Put the oven on 150C. Grease a pie dish. Mix butter, sugar and eggs. Add the flour, baking powder and lime juice. Spread out the batter in the dish. Add the berries. Sprinkle the zest on top. Bake for 40 mins.

Lots of lovely nibbles

What do you eat for supper when you have had afternoon tea late in the afternoon? We thought it was good to have lots of little dishes tapas style instead of a proper meal. And when it was time to sit down we were actually hungrier than we had expected.

Homemade calamari

We made our favourites: baked camembert, charcuteries with balsamic glaze, melon, pickled artichoke hearts, crusty bread, paté, Saint Agure, cornichons and homemade calamari with aioli. It was perfect to nibble on a little bit of this and a little bit of that. It has been a while since we had baked camembert, and it is SO good.

Parma, prosciutto and saucisson
Balsamic glaze, truffle honey and Christopher’s mum’s chilli jam.
The wonderful baked camembert

 

Afternoon tea at the Wolseley

It was typical English weather on Saturday – rain! But it was mild so it wasn’t too bad. We still managed to go shopping, first in Chelsea, then in Harrod’s and then around Piccadilly before our afternoon tea at the Wolseley at 5pm.  

Our table was up on a balcony, and it was just two tables up there. We had a perfect view over the busy restaurant, and I felt more comfortable taking pictures when we were a bit secluded from the rest of the restaurant. And to make sure the staff would not forget about us, we even had a service button on the table. Cute!

All of us chose the afternoon tea, and the boys drank Earl Grey while Marua and I chose the Wolseley’s own afternoon blend. It was nice and quite smokey.

We got two tiered plates with lots of goodies. The sandwiches were on the bottom plate and were from the right: smoked salmon on wholemeal; cucumber on white; cream cheese and celery on tomato bread; chicken and tarragon on white and eggs and mayonnaise on white. I prefere the celery sandwich and the chicken sandwich, those combinations really worked. There was nothing wrong with any of them, but I really dislike English wholemeal so the salmon was my least favourite.

After the sandwiches we carried on with the fruit scones. They were lovely and light and far from dry. I must say that they are much nicer than my homemade ones, even though mine are nice also. It was lovely with the clotted cream and nice strawberry jam.

Lastly we tried all the nice pastries. You are probably to chose a few each, but we thought it was more fun to try all of them.

We started with the Battenberg, which was a nice version of it, even though I don’t particulary like the cake. The rhubarb tarte we tried next was more my cup of tea. It was quite sharp but very nice. Next we tried the cheesecake which was heaven. It was vanilla with two layers, first the cream cheese layer and then the sourcream layer on top, which is exactly how I prefer my cheesecake. I would happily have a bigger slice of this!

The large macaroon was pistachio flavour, and I disliked thebitter almond taste. Nothing wrong with it other than my personal taste. The meringue was ncie and chewy, just the flavourting that wasn’t what I would have liked. The chocolate cake we tried next was not that great according to me either, but I can (obviously) be quite picky with cakes. The mousse was lovely but too rich for me, and the cake underneath was a little dry. I think I would have liked it better if the proportions were reversed, with more cake than mousse, but Christopher liked the mousse and would quite happily have had a tub of it! 🙂 The last pastry was a coffee profiteroles, and since I don’t like coffee I didn’t even try it. I was quite pleased as it was!

I realise that I have been extremely picky in my review but that is my nature. I dissect every single thing. But put it all together this was a wonderful afternoon with friends, and with my picky taste there is no way I would like everything in such a diverse selection as an afternoon tea. The standard was very high and I would happily come back here for there afternoon tea.

Although it was easier to take photos on the balcony, I still only had my small compact with my, and the photos are not great, but I hope you can get an idea of what it was like.