Dinner at U Maje i Tonke, Korcula, Croatia


Gaby and I realised about halfway through our time in Croatia that we had holidaying down to a T. We planned our days really well, explored the things we wanted to see and even managed to pick the best weather for each activity; the only day with a clear blue sky we spent at the beach and the cloudier ones exploring the city of Split.

But what we were even better at was finding good restaurants with absolutely no prior information.

This cosy place, U Maje i Tonke, in Korcula was one of those restaurants we just stumbled upon. The food is simple but well cooked, the menu cleverly written (in English) and the tables laid with mismatching flowery tablecloths adding to the cosy atmosphere. And, as all Croatian restaurants, it offered good value for money.


We chose to share the two dishes we were both deciding between. They look similar and have several ingredients in common yet tasted completely different. This is a polenta gratin with cured ham, tomato sauce and mild goat’s cheese. Absolutely lovely and fresh! And a new way for me to prepare polenta.


We also had aubergine rolls with cured ham, a sharper goat’s cheese and tomato sauce  – absolutely lovely and my favourite.

The restaurant’s signature dish is a board with a selection of starters that looked amazing, and although we were a bit too hungry for that to be enough yet not hungry enough to have that and a maincourse, I do wish we had tried it. Next time…


A glimpse into the kitchen where two ladies cooked all the food from scratch. Definitely worth a visit!

U Maje i Tonke, Trg korčulanskih klesara i kipara 2, 20260 Korcula, Croatia

Croatia: the islands


The first part of Gaby’s and my Croatia trip was on board a yacht for six days. It was an organised tour and it was nice to just relax on board and trust our very capable skipper to take us around the islands.


The second day we stopped in Vis town, a cute little town on the small island of Vis. It was popular to rent old VW converibles here, but Gaby and I were quite satisfied just walking around the town in a leisurely pace, going for a swim and having lunch.


We had the local cevapi for lunch, here served with chopped raw onions and ajvar which seemed to be the local condiments to any meat. This simple lunch was really nice but didn’t set us back many pounds at all.


We also walked past this lovely cemetery with a rather spectacular view.


VW beetle convertible.


Our third night we anchored at Vela Luka and got a bus to Korcula town as it would have taken us too long to sail all the way there.


Korcula was pretty and cosy but fairly touristy since it is Marc O’Polo’s home town.


What we liked the most was the cute alleyways all around the town and the excellent restaurant where we had dinner (which will feature in its own post).


The biggest party town is Hvar which was a lot nicer than I had imagined. We were on good form before even reaching Hvar though, here a spot of spontaneous dancing in the water taxi.


The day after Hvar town we sailed to another town on Hvar island called Stari Grad (which means Old Town). It was indeed a pretty old town and it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. IMG_5331Pretty Stari Grad by night. More posts on Croatia to come, both on Split where we rested up for a few days after the sailing trip and on the restaurants we went to.