Pork cheek confit with sage sauce

Unusual cuts of meat have been popular for a while, probably a lot thanks to Fergus Henderson, and it is almost comical that we now pay lots of money for what used to be peasant food for our grandparent’s generation.

To me it seems like the general public only eat chicken breats, salmon fillets and beef mince. There are so much more to fish, meat and poultry than that, and as much as I enjoy different cuts for the variety I also like to buy them because they are a lot cheaper than i.e. chicken breasts.

Fresh food is expensive, but with cheaper, unusal cuts of meat you can get a wonderful tasting meal if you just learn how to cook them. Most unusual cuts are tougher but full of flavour and therefore need a slowcooking approach.

My paternal grandmother for example, cooked and ate pig’s trotters quite a lot, because it was cheap and tasty. Now I eat pig’s trotters in Michelin starred restaurants, which is nice, but a bit twisted, you must admit.

One increasingly popular cheap cut of pork is the cheeks, and I bought some in Waitrose for £2.99 a kilo. I used google to do some research on how to best cook them and found that the most common way was a confit.

The day before I made the confit, then refridgerated the pork cheeks over night, sliced them in thin slices the next day and fried them until crispy. Together with roasted vegetables and potatoes and a sauce with sage and garlic, this was a delicious yet cheap meal for two.

The pork cheeks were absolutely lovely and I will definitely cook it again soon. At the dinner table we started thinking about how else to serve it. Maybe as a starter with a salad, or with a mushroom creme, or perhaps in an indulgent sandwich? The sky is the limit!

Pork cheek confit, with sage sauce and roasted vegetables, serves 2

500 g pork cheeks

300-400 ml goose or duck fat

butter and olive oil for frying

salt & pepper

Vegetables:

5 potatoes

1 large parsnip

1 red bell pepper

1 courgette

Italian herbs

olive oil

salt och pepper

Sauce:

olive oil

2 tbsp chopped fresh sage

1 small garlic clove, pressed

100 ml creme fraiche

200 ml single cream

2 tsp dijon mustard

1 tbsp soy sauce

1/2 tbsp Heinz chilli sauce or ketchup alt. a pinch of brown sugar

concentrated beef stock

salt & pepper

colouring agent

Place the cheeks in an ovenproof dish and cover with the fat. Place in 125C oven for 2-3 hours until the meat has browned and is tender. Take the meat out of the tray and place on a plate. Refrigerate.

Peel the potatoes and parsnip and cut into wedges. Place in a roasting tray. Slice the courgette, cut the peppers into large(ish) pieces and place in the tray. Add olive oil and Italian herbs, salt and pepper. Bake in 200C for 30-40 mins, stirring occasionally.

When the vegetables are almost cooked, start making the sauce. Heat up some olive oil in a non-stick sauce pan, on medium heat. Fry the sage and garlic for a minute or so. Add cream, creme fraiche, mustard, chilli sauce and soy. Bring to the boil and season to taste with salt and pepper and stock. Colour the sauce light brown and let it thicken.

Slice the cold cheeks into 2-3 mm thick slices. Heat up butter and olive oil on high heat in a frying pan and fry the slices until crispy. Serve with the sauce and vegetables and marvel over how wonderful this is. 

The Blue Bicycle, York

York is a small town and that means a smaller selection of restaurants than larger towns, naturally, but because we are used to all the restaurants London has to offer, we decided to cook ourselves for most day. One evening however we visited the Blue Bicycle which was mentioned on Via Michelin’s website.

The restaurant was charming in its interior design with red walls, blue glasses and colourful china. The menu was both intriguing and rather boring.

There was no ordinary bread basket instead we got a little clay pot each with a bread baked in it. A nice touch. And so wash the baked garlic to have on it. The bread was nice and crusty on the top, but a bit too doughy in the bottom.

Christopher chose French onion soup for his starter, which was nice but not fantastic. The bread on the side was really nice though and would have been better than the bread in clay pots to start the meal.

I chose a crayfish, spring onion and gruyére bonbon, which turned out to be a large croquette with these three ingredients. It was crispy on the outside and had lovely melted cheese on the inside. Unfortunately the rest was mainly mashed potatoes and it only contained one crayfish. A great idea that lacked in execution.

Less potato and more crayfish and spring onion would be the way forward. And a vinaigrette instead of just oil with the salsa and salad would have been a lot fresher.

Chritopher chose the steak for his maincourse which looked lovely. It came with new potatoes, fried cauliflower and a mustard hollandaise. Till varmrätt beställde Christopher biff med nypotatis, friterad blomkål och senapshollandaise. Biffen var lite för välstekt för att vara blue-rare men var ändå god.

I chose seabass and got two large fillets on my plate together with a giant fondant potato that was very nice. The sauce was roasted garlic and quite nice and the fried ball was some kind of olive mash that to be honest was a bit weird in taste. I would have prefered some fresh vegetables instead.

We were way too full to have dessert (I had to leave quite a lot of my maincourse) so we decided on a walk to digest the food.

I don’t think the restaurant was all bad, even though I am quite critical in my review. This seem to be one of the better restaurants in York and it was very popular. Around 15 people was turned away while we were there and we got the only walk-in table for the evening. I do think the restaurant has potential. It was nice inside and they certainly can cook, it is more when it comes to creating daring dishes were it doesn’t really work. I think a more traditional approach with English and French well-cooked food would work better.

The Blue Bicycle Restaurant
34 Fossgate
York, YO1 9TA
Tel: 01904 673990

A drive through Yorkshire

One of the days we stayed in York, we rented a car for the day and drove out to the countryside. The first stop was Fountain’s Abbey, a well preserved old abbey cared for by the National Trust.

Our initial plan was to stop at a few different places along the road and maybe go for a walk, but it was raining heavily most of the time, so we had to eat our picnic inside the car and rush out to take pictures and then straight back inside.

It stopped raining (for a little while) just as we pulled into the village of Hutton-le-Hole so we could have a look around.

Despite the weather, we really enjoyed driving around and seeing more of the county and its wonderful nature. It was moors filled with heather, sheep everywhere and winding roads.

The city of York

We have spent Monday to Friday this week up north in York, the English city that was the capital during Roman times, which you can see evidence of all over the town.

York is a small, but very cosy town, with lots of old buildings and narrow cobbled streets. We had a look around the city and went for a walk on the old city walls, made a visit to the museum where we learned more about the history of York and the amazing Minster. We also wanted to visit the Treasurer’s house, but we had completely missed the fact that they were closed on Fridays, the day when we intended to go. Oh well…

We rented a flat instead of staying in a hotel or B&B, because we wanted to be able to stay in if we wanted to. He priority with this trip was to rest, sleep, unwind and recover from a busy summer, so sightseeing was secondary.

The flat we rented was really nice and close to the train station which meant that we could walk everywhere. It also had a TV (which we actually don’t have) and it was actually really nice to watch crappy day-time television. The flat also came with a DVD-player and a selection of good DVDs, so we stayed in most nights.

After a few days among super friendly people, fresh air, colder more autumnal weather, it was really nice to come back home to London yesterday.

Friday!

Friday again. A day I normally get very excited about but less so this week when we’ve had all week off. Never the less, it is always nice with the weekend approaching.

We have spent this week in and around York in the north of England. It has been a nice break from busy London and we feel really rested.

Later today we’re taking the train back to the big smoke and although we’ve had a great time away I am quite looking forward to seeing my own kitchen again. 🙂

Next week’s menu is looking like this:

Tonight: homemade pizza

Saturday: Remsan’s girolle cannelloni (Swedish recipe)

Sunday: toasts (away for lunch)

polenta with chorizo and mushrooms

Tuscan bean soup

chorizo stew with carrots and parsnips

The one thing we’ve got planned this weekend is to celebrate Anna’s 30th. Have a great day, dear!

And to the rest of you: Have a nice weekend!

Gitto’s Damascus chicken wings

We went on holiday to Syria in March, before the country fell apart more or less, and felt very lucky that we got to visit before everything took a turn for the worst, but you also feel a bit guilty for it. We got to experience the lovely country and then just left and went back home, and didn’t have to deal with what came next.

It is terrible what is happening in the Middle East and I certainly don’t want to belittle all that. But. I did fall in love with the country and especially its food, and that is why I want to share this great recipe with you.

The most wonderful spice blend I got to taste in Syria was za’atar that is very popular all over the Middle East. It is a spice blend consisting of thyme and sesame seeds mainly, and as all other blends it can taste very different depending on the specific ratios. The one we tried and bought from a whole saler in Damascus was just fabulous and something I really treasure since we got back.

And when I saw that a Swedish food blogger had come up with chicken wings with za’atar I just couldn’t resist trying it.

It was very unusual, I bet you, just like me, think of chicken wings and chilli sauce, not za’atar. But this was new and fresh and together with a lovely feta dip this was a great weekday treat.

The original recipe is in Swedish only, so my translation follow below:

Damscus chicken wings, serves 2

400 g chicken wings

70 g or so of ciftlik paneer (or proper feta)

100 ml milk

a few mint leaves

100 ml za’atar

100 ml olive oil

vegetable oil for deep-frying

1/2 cucumber

Turn the oven on 75C. Split the chicken wings by the joint. Place in a colander. Pour a litre of boiling water over the wings and then place them on a wire rack with a baking tray underneath. Let them crisp up in the oven for 40 minutes.

Mix cheese and milk and add the mint. Mix za’atar and olive oil in a bowl. Cut the cucumber into batons. Deep-fry the chicken wings in 180C oil until nice and golden, for about 6-7 minutes. Fry in batches and place on kitchen towel. Mix the chicken wings with the za’atar mixture and dig in.

Blueberry cheesecake

For the August birthdays at work I made lavender blondies and this blueberry cheesecake. I wanted to use summery flavours before autumn is here knocking on the door.

I found the recipe for this cheesecake on a Swedish food blog, Matplatsen and it is quite box standard. Making the filling I used a stick blender, and that worked, however a good processor would work even better. And make sure not to omit the top layer of creme fraiche, that is (literally) the icing on the cake and makes it so much nicer.

Blueberry cheesecake, serves 8-10

Base:
250 g digestives
100 g butter

Flling #1:
450 g Philadelphia cheese or other cream cheese
200 g blueberries
3 eggs
125 ml caster sugar 

Filling #2:
300 ml creme fraiche
3 tbsp caster sugar
1 tbsp vanilla sugar

Turn on the oven and set it to 180C. Crumble the biscuits and mix with melted butter. Press the base into a springform until firm. Bake in oven for 5-10 minutes. Mix the ingredients for filling #1 until smooth and pour into the springform. Bake in a low oven for 25-30 minutes or until just set.

Mix filling #2 and spread it onto the cale. Bake for another 5 minutes. Leave to cool completely and refrigerate until serving. Decorate with fresh blueberries and icing sugar.

York

The picture is borrowed from http://www.designmeawebsite.net/web-design-york/

We’re off from work this week and are staying in York until Friday. I am very much looking forward to it. To  go for walks in the countryside and on the moor in wellies and a quilted Barbour, breath fresh air and look around the town.

It is only a month ago since we got back from a week in Sweden, and although that was wonderful as always, it is not relaxing in the same way a ‘real’ holiday is. So that is why this week will mean a lot to us. We want to have lie-ins every morning, decided on the day what we want to do, stroll around the streets and go to the pub and relax with good food.

 

Anna’s lavender blondies

One of my favourite Swedish blogs is Anna’s Scanian pantry (Skånska Skafferiet), partly because she lives in ‘my’ county but also because her recipes are wonderful. She combines the new with the old and comes up with interesting flavour combinations. One of these great combos is the white chocolate, almond and lavender one used in this blondie recipe – it truly is divine!

Anna’s lavender blondies, serves 16

200 g white chocolate (Fairtrade)

250 g butter

4 eggs

300 ml caster sugar

250 ml plain flour

a pinch of salt

Chopped:

100 g white chocolate

100 g blanched almonds

2 tbsp lavender
Turn the oven on 200C and cover the base of a rectangular baking tray with parchment paper. Break up the 200 g of chocolate and melt it together with the butter in a sauce oan. The chocolate must not be too warm and does not need to melt completely. Stir with a fork until a glossy mixture.

Add sugar and salt to the chocolate mixture. Add the eggs and beat until smooth. Add the flour while stirring. Chop the remaining chocolate, lavender (not necessary really) and almonds. Pour the batter into the baking tray and scatter the chopped stuff on top. Press it down into the batter with a spatula.

Bake in the middle of the oven for 22-25 minutes. The top should be crispy and should have let go of the sides but the middle should be smudgy. Fill up the sink with cold water and place the tray there to cool down. Then place the tray in the fridge for at least an hour before cutting into squares.