Monthly Archives: September 2011

The Square

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When it was by birthday back in July, my colleague Caroline treated me to lunch at the lovely L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, so I felt the pressure when it was her birthday this month. I took her to the Square, a restaurant equally decorated with Michelin stars (two) for a fabulous lunch.

The Square is located in Mayfair not far from Berkeley Square and fully booked for this Monday lunch it seemed. The dining room is understatedly elegant and the waiting staff very professional.

We started the meal with nice bread and amazing, almost yellow in colour, salted butter. Unfortunately I could not hear exactly what the amuse bouche was, from our whispering waiter, but it was utterly delicious. A salty jelly at the bottom with a sweeter velouté on top in a little bowl, it was a lovely start to the meal, and made promises about was whas coming.

We opted for the set menu, and Caroline started off with a mackerel velouté with buttermilk muffins and crab on the side. It looked divine, and Caroline confirmed that is sure was.

I had the veal salad with thin slices of fabulous pink veal, runner beans, celeriac and a lovely dressing.

We chose the same maincourse; pollock with chestnut and chanterelle ravioi, amazing puré and pickled walnuts. Absolutely lovely, although with this dish the pollock was not the main character – the ravioli was.

The portions were bigger than at some other restaurants with type of cuisine, and that is of course good in a way, but we were too full after our maincourse to contemplate dessert, but we still received something sweet after lunch, a plate of luscious nougat, with a perfect balanced honey – nut ratio.

Of course we would rather had stayed out in the sunshine than go back to the office, but still a very  good start to the week. :)

The Square
6-10 Bruton Street
Mayfair
London
W1J 6PU
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7495 7100

Footnote: I try to take pictures when I eat out, but some places just don’t feel right, and this restaurant is one of them. I would feel silly and rude for bringing out my camera, so that is why the write-up is all text, no photos.

Girolle cannelloni

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I found this wonderful recipe on a Swedish blogg called Remsan’s bistro and decided to make it. But being incapable of following orders or recipes, I of course made a few changes. But the essence of the original recipe is still there; the combination of girolles with thyme and cognac.

Try this, pretty please? You will regret it if you don’t…

Girolle cannelloni, serves 2-4

Adapted after Emmy’s recipe.

16 cannelloni tubes, De Cecco

1/2 medium onion, chopped

200 g fresh button mushrooms, diced in small pieces

100 g girolles, diced

200 ml crème fraiche

2 tbsp cognac

2 tbsp fresh thyme (or 1 tsp of the dried variety)

1 tsp salt

1 tsp black pepper

1 tsp crema di balsamico

200 ml single cream

200 ml crème fraiche

300 ml grated cheese

grated nutmeg

salt, white pepper

Fry the onion soft in butter. Add the mushrooms and fry until golden brown. Add salt and pepper. Add creme fraiche, cognac, stock, balsamico and spices. Simmer for a few minutes.

Fill  the cannelloni tubes with the mushroom mixture and place in a greased gratin dish. Mix cream, creme fraiche, nutmeg, salt and pepper in a bowl. Pour it into the dish and distribute evenly. Sprinkle with cheese. Bake in 20-30 mins in 180-200C. Serve with a nice salad and a glass of wine. 

Caramelised pork fillet, potatoes with tomatoes and parmesan, and a cold dijon and honey sauce

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In Sweden pork fillet is the most common cut of meat for dinner parties. I state that as a fact, and I am convinced I am right, but with no real research to back it up apart from my own experience.

What’s so good about the pork fillet it that it is lean meat that when cooked right is very soft and tender. And because of the cut being lean it means less flavour in the meat than tougher cuts, which then means that this is a very versatile cut. You can flavour it with anything you like.

I have come across thousands after thousands of recipes for this particular fillet in Sweden, but hardly any here in the UK. But then I found one, by Gary Rhodes. And it was just too tempting not to try it.

It is incredibly simple, but leaves a very tender meat. First you caramelise it whole in a frying pan, then transfer it to an oven until just done. Let it rest. Slice and serve.

Because this cooking approach leaves a fairly bland (but delicious) meat it needs soemthing more flavoursome to go with it. I opted for thick potato slices, cooked in the oven with chopped sunblush tomatoes, thyme and grated parmesan. And with a cold dijon and honey sauce, this is a perfect dish for this time of year; the transition between summer and autumn.

Caramelised pork fillet, serves 2-3

Adapted after Gary Rhode’s recipe

1 pork fillet, trimmed, about 400 g

salt, black pepper

butter

50 ml caster sugar

Season the meat well on all sides. Pat it with some of the sugar. Place the fillet in a hot frying pan with the butter in. Add the remaining sugar and fry the meat until caramelised all around. Then either transfer the meat to an oven tray or place the frying pan (if it does not have a plastic handle) in a 200C oven for 12 minutes. Leave to rest in tin foil for at least 5 mins before slicing.

Potato slices with tomatoes, thyme and parmesan, serves 2

3 large maris piper potatoes or baking potatoes, washed

1/2 jar  sunblush tomatoes

a few sprigs of thyme, just the leaves

50 ml grated parmesan

olive oil, salt and pepper

Cut the potatoes into 1 cm thick slices and place on a baking tray. Chop the tomatoes finely and mix with the thyme. Place some of the mixture on each potato slice. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with parmesan and add salt and pepper. Place in a low oven, 300 C for about 35 minutes or until the potatoes are cooked.

Cold dijonand honey sauce, serves 2

200 ml half fat creme fraiche or regular sour cream

1-2 tsp dijon

2 tsp squeezy honey (Acacia)

salt, white pepper

Mix all the ingredients. Leave for 10 minutes to intense the flavours. 

Quiche Lorraine

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When Anna turned 30 she had an afternoon tea party at her house, and with plenty of guests she had asked a few of us to help with the baking. Ian’s mother made lovely scones, lemon drizzle cake and coffee cake. Anna and her mother made blinis with smoked salmon and sandwiches (ham; egg salad; smoked salmon) and I made a quiche.

Quiche Lorraine is a French classic containing bacon and cheese. I also added chives and parsley to the cream mixture.

I got plenty of compliments for the pie crust, which I was very pleased with, only a week after they made shortcrust in the great TV show The Great British Bake Off, so every one was well aware of soggy bottoms etc.

Quiche Lorraine, serves 4-6 as a meal, 8-10 on a buffet

Crust:

120 g soft butter

300 ml plain flour

a pinch of salt

1/2 beaten egg

Filling:

1/2 onion, finely chopped

300 g smoked and cured streaky bacon (fried in pieces, then drained on kitchen towel)

butter and oil for frying

150 ml grated cheese (I used Monterey Jack)

1/2 bunch parsley, chopped

1 bunch chives, chopped

300 ml single cream

3 eggs + 1/2 left over from the crust making

white pepper (no salt needed)

Pinch together the ingredients for the dough, do not knead it. Place in the fridge for 30 mins-1 hour. Roll out the dough or push it into place in the quiche tin. Use a fork to make holes in the bottom, pre-bake in 180C for 10 mins.

Fry the onion soft on medium heat. Place in a mixing bowl. Fry the bacon crisp in the same pan, remove to the mixing bowl and leave to cool slightly. Add the cheese, eggs, cream, herbs and pepper. Fill the quiche and bake for 35 mins in 180C (or until set and golden in colour). Enjoy it hot or cold or in between.

Oeufs en cocotte with bacon and cheese

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A long breakfast or brunch is the best way to start the weekend, isn’t it?! A favourite dish of mine for such occassions is oeufs en cocotte; a baked egg with cream in a ramekin. I have mentioned about these little darlings before, but thought it was time again now since I last weekend had the perfect egg. Not yet set, with cheese, bacon and truffle oil it was such a delight.

I also, finally, figured out the perfect time and setting for my temperamental oven. Horay!

Follow my lead:

Oeus en cocotte with bacon and cheese, serves 1

a knob of butter

1 slice of bacon, fried in pieces, drained on kitchen towel

1 egg

2 tbsp single cream

1-2 tbsp grated cheese (I used Monterey Jack, but cheddar would work just as well)

1 tsp truffle oil

white pepper (no salt necessary)

Grease a ramekin. Place the fried bacon in the bottom and break the egg on top. Pour over the cream, sprinkle the cheese, drizzle truffle oil and add some pepper. Place in a ovenproof dish and fill it half up to the ramekin with boiling water. Place in 160-180 C oven (depending on the oven, mine was perfect at 160C) and bake for 14-16 minutes, longer if you need the egg to set. Eat with a spoon and a piece of buttered toast, and roll on Saturday night!

Friday again and weekly menu

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The first week back at work after the holiday has been ok actually, although it was a shock to the system with a busy first day back.

I met up with Nick for lunch at Strada, a restaurant chain with nice Italian food to cheap prices. Not too exciting, but good value for money.

Tonight we’re off to celebrate Jenny’s birthday and tomorrow we’re going to Gaby and David’s for dinner. Hopefully I will have some time to cook and bake as well. :)

The menu from today looks like this: 

Friday: eating out

Saturday: at Gaby & David’s

Sunday: roast lamb with roast potatoes and a nice sauce

Proper homemade Italian pizza

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I love homemade pizza and have used the same recipe for years. It is very good but doesn’t feel all that authentic. So it was time to try something new, a real Italian recipe. It is a very simple recipe but quite different in texture compared to the other one. The strong 00-flour makes it very easy to shape the pizzas, or roll them out if you prefer. The bases also go really crispy in a regular oven on a regular (cold even) baking sheet.

The recipe is courtesy of Gennaro Contaldo, the man who has taught Jame Oliver all there is to know about Italian cooking. You can watch him make pizzas here.  The recipe for the tomato sauce is my own, but still authentic enough I hope. :)

Italian pizza dough, 2 pizzas

500 g 00-flour

1 tsp salt

1 tsp dried yeast

325 ml lukewarm water

Mix flour and salt in a mixing bowl. Add the yeast. Add the water bit by bit while stirring with a wooden fork. Knead the dough until elastic. Cut the dough into two and shape to round balls. Put the dough balls back in the mixing bowl, sprinkle with flour and cover. Place somewhere warm and let it rise for 90 minutes.

Shape the dough into round pizzas or use a rolling pin to roll it out thinly. Add the toppings you like and bake in 225C, in a low oven, for 8-10 minutes.

Tomato sauce, for 2 pizzas

200 g passata

a splash of water

1-2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

2 tsp dried Italian herbs

1 garlic clove, pressed

1/2 tsk brunt socker

salt, black pepper

Mix all the ingredients in a non-stick sauce pan. Bring to the boil and let it reduce (boil down) and thicken while stirring. Leave to cool.

Margherita topping for 1 pizza:

1/2 batch tomato sauce

olive oil

1 buffalo mozzarella

a handful of basil

Roll out the dough and drizzle some olive oil on it. Spread out the tomato sauce. Shred the mozzarella into chunks and place on the pizza. Add some basil leaves. Another drop of olive oil and put it in the oven on 225C, middle to low oven for 8-10 minutes.

Salami topping for 1 pizza:

1/2 batch tomato sauce

olive oil

200 g saucisson

1 garlic clove, pressed

oregano

Roll out the dough and drizzle some olive oil on it. Add the tomato sauce and spread it out. Shred the mozzarella into chunks and place on the pizza. Add the slices of saucisson. Distribute the garlic and sprinkle oregano on top. Put it in the oven on 225C, middle to low oven for 8-10 minutes.

Crab risotto

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What are your thoughts on the combination cheese and shellfish? I have never really thought about it before I met Christopher, who can’t stand it, and I kind of see why now.

When I had planned to make crab risotto, I thought to myself that I must remember to omit the parmesan for Christopher’s sake, but I didn’t need to worry, the recipe I used, Angela Hartnett’s, contained no parmesan. So perhaps it is a rule, not to mix cheese with shellfish. In the one case when I do think it works though, is Lobster Thermidor, but that is probably the exception that confirms the rule (Swedish saying in case it does not make sense…)

Back to the risotto. It was delicious without the parmesan of course, and with added butter for creaminess, this was a delicious weekend dish.

Crab risotto, serves 2

Adapted after Angela Hartnetts recipe.

100 g white crab meat

a dash of tabasco

1 tbsp lemon juice

olive oil

100 g cold butter, cut into cubes

1/2 onion, finely chopped

250 g risotto rice

100 ml white wine

800 ml-1 l vegetable stock

a bunch basil, chopped

Heat up the olive oil and half the butter in a casserole dish/large saucepan. Add the onions and fry until soft and transparent. Add the rice and cook for another 2 minutes. Turn the heat up and add the wine. Let it bubble away for a few minutes, then lower the heat to medium again. Add a ladle at the time of the hot stock, and let it evaporate from the pan while cooking. When the pan is almost dry, add another ladle. Repeat for abour 18 minutes or until the rice is cooked al dente. Season to taste with lemon juice, tabasco, salt and pepper. Remove from heat and add the crab meat, the rest of the butter and the chopped basil. Serve immediately, preferrably in a nice bowl for extra comfort food feeling.  

Pork cheek confit with sage sauce

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Unusual cuts of meat have been popular for a while, probably a lot thanks to Fergus Henderson, and it is almost comical that we now pay lots of money for what used to be peasant food for our grandparent’s generation.

To me it seems like the general public only eat chicken breats, salmon fillets and beef mince. There are so much more to fish, meat and poultry than that, and as much as I enjoy different cuts for the variety I also like to buy them because they are a lot cheaper than i.e. chicken breasts.

Fresh food is expensive, but with cheaper, unusal cuts of meat you can get a wonderful tasting meal if you just learn how to cook them. Most unusual cuts are tougher but full of flavour and therefore need a slowcooking approach.

My paternal grandmother for example, cooked and ate pig’s trotters quite a lot, because it was cheap and tasty. Now I eat pig’s trotters in Michelin starred restaurants, which is nice, but a bit twisted, you must admit.

One increasingly popular cheap cut of pork is the cheeks, and I bought some in Waitrose for £2.99 a kilo. I used google to do some research on how to best cook them and found that the most common way was a confit.

The day before I made the confit, then refridgerated the pork cheeks over night, sliced them in thin slices the next day and fried them until crispy. Together with roasted vegetables and potatoes and a sauce with sage and garlic, this was a delicious yet cheap meal for two.

The pork cheeks were absolutely lovely and I will definitely cook it again soon. At the dinner table we started thinking about how else to serve it. Maybe as a starter with a salad, or with a mushroom creme, or perhaps in an indulgent sandwich? The sky is the limit!

Pork cheek confit, with sage sauce and roasted vegetables, serves 2

500 g pork cheeks

300-400 ml goose or duck fat

butter and olive oil for frying

salt & pepper

Vegetables:

5 potatoes

1 large parsnip

1 red bell pepper

1 courgette

Italian herbs

olive oil

salt och pepper

Sauce:

olive oil

2 tbsp chopped fresh sage

1 small garlic clove, pressed

100 ml creme fraiche

200 ml single cream

2 tsp dijon mustard

1 tbsp soy sauce

1/2 tbsp Heinz chilli sauce or ketchup alt. a pinch of brown sugar

concentrated beef stock

salt & pepper

colouring agent

Place the cheeks in an ovenproof dish and cover with the fat. Place in 125C oven for 2-3 hours until the meat has browned and is tender. Take the meat out of the tray and place on a plate. Refrigerate.

Peel the potatoes and parsnip and cut into wedges. Place in a roasting tray. Slice the courgette, cut the peppers into large(ish) pieces and place in the tray. Add olive oil and Italian herbs, salt and pepper. Bake in 200C for 30-40 mins, stirring occasionally.

When the vegetables are almost cooked, start making the sauce. Heat up some olive oil in a non-stick sauce pan, on medium heat. Fry the sage and garlic for a minute or so. Add cream, creme fraiche, mustard, chilli sauce and soy. Bring to the boil and season to taste with salt and pepper and stock. Colour the sauce light brown and let it thicken.

Slice the cold cheeks into 2-3 mm thick slices. Heat up butter and olive oil on high heat in a frying pan and fry the slices until crispy. Serve with the sauce and vegetables and marvel over how wonderful this is. 

The Blue Bicycle, York

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York is a small town and that means a smaller selection of restaurants than larger towns, naturally, but because we are used to all the restaurants London has to offer, we decided to cook ourselves for most day. One evening however we visited the Blue Bicycle which was mentioned on Via Michelin’s website.

The restaurant was charming in its interior design with red walls, blue glasses and colourful china. The menu was both intriguing and rather boring.

There was no ordinary bread basket instead we got a little clay pot each with a bread baked in it. A nice touch. And so wash the baked garlic to have on it. The bread was nice and crusty on the top, but a bit too doughy in the bottom.

Christopher chose French onion soup for his starter, which was nice but not fantastic. The bread on the side was really nice though and would have been better than the bread in clay pots to start the meal.

I chose a crayfish, spring onion and gruyére bonbon, which turned out to be a large croquette with these three ingredients. It was crispy on the outside and had lovely melted cheese on the inside. Unfortunately the rest was mainly mashed potatoes and it only contained one crayfish. A great idea that lacked in execution.

Less potato and more crayfish and spring onion would be the way forward. And a vinaigrette instead of just oil with the salsa and salad would have been a lot fresher.

Chritopher chose the steak for his maincourse which looked lovely. It came with new potatoes, fried cauliflower and a mustard hollandaise. Till varmrätt beställde Christopher biff med nypotatis, friterad blomkål och senapshollandaise. Biffen var lite för välstekt för att vara blue-rare men var ändå god.

I chose seabass and got two large fillets on my plate together with a giant fondant potato that was very nice. The sauce was roasted garlic and quite nice and the fried ball was some kind of olive mash that to be honest was a bit weird in taste. I would have prefered some fresh vegetables instead.

We were way too full to have dessert (I had to leave quite a lot of my maincourse) so we decided on a walk to digest the food.

I don’t think the restaurant was all bad, even though I am quite critical in my review. This seem to be one of the better restaurants in York and it was very popular. Around 15 people was turned away while we were there and we got the only walk-in table for the evening. I do think the restaurant has potential. It was nice inside and they certainly can cook, it is more when it comes to creating daring dishes were it doesn’t really work. I think a more traditional approach with English and French well-cooked food would work better.

The Blue Bicycle Restaurant
34 Fossgate
York, YO1 9TA
Tel: 01904 673990